Wednesday, December 10, 2008

How Does One Discern a Palate? And Wedding Bells Chime on This Week's Top Chef

Our cheftestants' palates and tolerance were put to the test this week in a smart new "name that ingredient" quickfire, and a bridal shower challenge. Padma wore a beautiful purple dress that I want for my own, and Hosea finally won the berth of my favorite so far this season (which was yet unclaimed). He's talented, humble, and smart. And he knows how to taste a sauce!

A palate-testing quickfire has been a staple of the last few seasons, and I really liked the way they did it this time around. The chefs went head to head in a sauce-tasting competition: the competitor who could name the most ingredients accurately advanced. The three sauces were shimp & lobster bisque, thai curry sauce, and mexican mole sauce - all of which have a multitude of discernible and subtle flavors. I think the most flavors named accurately was seven - including salt and pepper - but most contests went to only four or five ingredients. I was surprised at how quickly many of them folded! But it was a really interesting thing to watch, nonetheless. In the end, Hosea won.

And it made me wonder... how does one acquire a "discerning palate"? Surely some people are born with a more attuned sense of taste, but I think it's still something that needs to be developed with time and age. Maybe chefs are kind of "palate proteges" as children - appreciating complex flavors like soy and chili far sooner than their peanut-butter-and-jelly-loving peers. Either way, I would guess that it takes most people at least until their early twenties to start appreciating stronger, more advanced flavors.

I try to think back to the moment when I began to enjoy more "mature" flavors, and I think it started when I was in college. Unfortunately, growing up in small town New Hampshire, I was not exposed to a lot of exotic flavors. But in college I tried sushi and thai food for the first time, and I learned to enjoy stronger, more flavorful chocolate and cheeses. Studying abroad in Scotland, I was introduced to the wonders of Indian curries. With some degree of resistance, I taught myself to love the complex textures of espresso, red wine, and expensive vodka. And then, suddenly, it was like a switch was flipped - there were hardly any foods that I didn't like or couldn't appreciate in some way. I'm still not the biggest fan of caviar or olives, but I definitely have a much more open mind and appreciation for strong, challenging, or otherwise uncommon foods. I don't like to play it safe anymore - I crave something more in the food I eat and cook. 

As I'm sure it is with our Top Chefs, who are supposed to know how to balance advanced flavors in traditional and unexpected ways. Unfortunately, several of them fell short of that standard in this week's elimination challenge, in which Gail pimped out the chefs to cater her bridal shower - which was full of Food & Wine Magazine staff members. My favorite was when Gail said "these aren't the kind of women who get their salad dressing on the side". And she was right. 

Gail's 4o or so guests were pretty discerning about their four courses, and while two were pretty solid hits (the Indian-inspired lamb and the heirloom tomato trio) the other two were clear misses. The deconstructed sushi roll (with nothing sushi about it, really) was a disaster - Danny really shot himself in the foot there, and I was happy to see his cocky badly shaven face go. But Fabio's team and their blue corn flour encrusted sea bass was not much better - the concept sounded about right, but apparently the flavors of the dish didn't wow the diners. One woman said "I feel like I'm eating old people food". Maybe because it lacked impactful flavors? I guess today's savvy thirtysomething women are expecting more out of their food too! As they should. 

So another week of Top Chef rolls on, and it looks like next week, Martha Stewart's got something crafty planned for the cheftestants. A Christmas cocktail party perhaps? We'll just have to wait and see! 

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Team Cougar Takes a Victory & Chef Love Blooms

Among the things I learned in tonight's episode:
1. Creme Brulee... not the best thing to make when you've only got an hour.
2. Why Top Chef will always be better than "Next Food Network Star".
3. Eggs benedict, the ice cream cone, and the bloody mary were all invented in New York City. Who knew?

I thought tonight's episode asked a very interesting and relevant question: does a top chef need to be able to do TV? Being on TV -- whether it's doing a small demonstration segment, or a whole TV show -- requires a few essential things. First, the chef must be confident and comfortable presenting their food to an audience. Second, they must be able to bring their style/dish down to a level that the home cook can understand. And third, they must have genuine personality - they must be enjoyable to watch. They must be... entertaining. 

Self promotion and confidence are certainly important things that every real top chef has - they must, or else they wouldn't be top chefs. And having a TV-friendly personality (and skills) has certainly helped many chefs gain superstardom (and super profits). But I don't agree that a chef has to be able to do TV to be successful. Yes, they need to be able to give an interview. No, they don't need to be able to cook on TV. They don't have to be able to bring their food down to a "home cook" level. Some (dare I say, many) chefs just aren't TV friendly, and it hasn't stopped them. 

Key point being - I think there is a big difference between "TV" chefs and real chefs. Don't get me wrong - I love me some Bobby Flay - but being able to create good TV and good food don't always go hand in hand. Which is why - for real foodies - Top Chef will always be better than The Next Food Network Star. Because good, inspiring food is entertaining enough by itself - I don't need the extra entertainment value. Yes, Top Chef IS a TV show and is definitely cast for personality. But the difference is that it centers around the food - not the character of the person who presents it. The best, most original, most inspiring food always wins - hands down. 

All of that said... I do generally enjoy the development of the characters on Top Chef each season. Each year, the heroes, the villians, the token gays, and the crazies emerge. And we love it. This season, I'm particularly enjoying the progression of what I think is the first Top Chef Romance! It looks like love is blooming for Hosea and Leah - for the second time, they've been caught getting their flirt on in front of the cameras. Who knew they could get so comfortable with each other so fast? Carla thinks they're just expressing their "sexual tension". But I'm pretty sure someone called Leah "the flirt with the big rack" one or two episodes ago, so looks like she's living up to it! Can't wait to see what happens...

And for the first time, Top Chef has it's own resident cougar! Ariane, the perky, tan New Jersey mom, took her first victory today after spending the first two weeks of competition on the bottom. Her simple beefsteak, watermelon, feta, and balsamic salad was a hit with the ladies of The Today Show. One of the most simple dishes, it still represented a unique flavor combination that a "home chef" could make. I thought it was maybe a little too elementary, but it must have been good!

Looking forward to more culinary action (and maybe some drama too) next week!